Heavenly Beverley : Whilst In Cue...

There are towns we have come across in our travels that really get under our skin. They leave such an impression that we long to return and immerse ourselves in their characters. They are the frontier towns that walk to the beat of their own drums. Cooktown is one. Cue is another.

For the average punter hurtling up the Great Northern Highway in the quest for winter warmth, Cue could quite easily be missed. The main drag, Austin Street, is resplendent with beautiful old buildings as well as some less than desirable cobbled together shops that have one thing in common. Most of them are empty. Bell's Emporium may or may not be open for groceries, liquor and other essentials. The Queen of the Murchison Guesthouse and Cafe are struggling at present as one half of their husband and wife team has had to go to the Big Smoke. The roadhouse continues to do a roaring trade, regardless of the fortunes of other town establishments. And the Cue Tourist Park enjoys a steady stream of visitors as Cue is conveniently at the finish line of a long drive from Perth.

Colin and Janelle began to learn the tools of the caravan park trade while in Alice Springs. They pulled up in their rig and were immediately offered work...Now they manage the Cue Tourist Park, with the help of their fearsome Shitz Tzu.

We have now been residents for four days. We were to move on to Meekatharra tomorrow, but we have decided to stay the fifth night. Our Facebook buddy and larger than life woman of mystery, Anna Johnson, who owns and operates the world-famous Made In Meeka, has just had a knee replacement. Before Michael breathes on her, we want to check that his throat virus is not contagious. The idea of giving a hacking cough to Anna, who is already suffering, would not be in anybody's Best Interests.

Hence, we are visiting the Nursing Post in the morning, before returning to Day Dawn for some final fossicking.

I understand the urge some travellers have to move on as quickly as possible, but a day or two in Cue might be a good idea after trekking up from the Big Smoke. Even if one isn't into mining or rusty metal, there is still plenty to enjoy. The historic town walk is a charming wander through thirteen points of interest. Laser cut statues featuring camels, a mustering team, the local beer delivery by goat and cart, the miner with his wheelbarrow and a resident drawing water from a well. The drives a little further out of Cue - deserted towns with romantic names - Big Bell and Day Dawn; fascinating rock art at Walga Rock; the ghosts of the old cemetery; the former popular picnic hub of Milly Soak can easily fill an entire day. Add to the mix an iconic pub and the always entertaining roadhouse and you have all the ingredients of a wonderful stopover.

The people who call Cue home are also a remarkable bunch. Steve, who lives opposite the Fire Station. is restoring one of Cue's venerable old dwellings. Janelle and Colin, our hosts at the Cue Tourist Park, had travelled together all over Australia. Joyce and Darryl who run the Queen of the Murchison Guesthouse had chosen to come from a Pilbara cattle station.

Today, we ventured out to Walga Rock, less than fifty kilometres from Cue, driving over very good gravel roads. We passed through Austin Downs station and by mining operations, both the current and the silenced.

The rock formations outside the flatness of Cue are truly extraordinary. They rise out of the Goldfields scrub, like a scene from one of Shane Moad's incredible paintings. Walga Rock is just one of several distinctive features. And certainly most impressive.

Walga Rock is two kilometres long. Its cave's paintings are known for being an enigma. The aborigine artworks are joined by a depiction of what appears to be a European sailing ship. Theories abound about a shipwrecked sailor being taken in by a tribe. How that sailor or sailors ended up over four hundred kilometres inland is anybody's guess.

We climbed to the top. The views were stupendous. We descended before our legs turned wibbly-wobbly. Apparently, we walked the equivalent of at least fifteen flights of stairs.

I'm glad I didn't know that before we started...