Saturday 31 July 2021

Onwards From Onslow!

Today is the last day of July. We have actually been over twenty-four hours here in Marble Bar, but there is an awful lot of filling in from the last day in Onslow, followed by three fabulous days in Point Samson, a quick stopover in Port Hedland prior to our arrival here in one of the jewels of the Pilbara.

Rewind back to Onslow. In spite of the shenanigans involving the faulty installation of the the caravan's water heater, we refused to allow this setback to interfere with our 2021 northern exposure. I had to remember those trips prior to the arrival of Digger, when armed only with water we carried with us, we adapted - showering at servos, toileting in the bush and recycling rinsing water to become the next washup water.

Fortunately, we have rather a few more creature comforts in the caravan parks where we are staying. The Northwest this year is packed; stories abound about queues outside servos, accommodation booked out, some ridiculous prices being charged - and accepted. We were never interested in going to Broome and reports of seventy-five thousand tourists in the town were astounding, along with capacity in other coastal centres such as Exmouth.

Back in Onslow, the town was very busy but still retaining its charm and ambiance. Onslow, a town of only eight hundred and fifty, boasts two caravan parks, plus plenty of free camping along the Ashburton River. Onslow is also eighty kilometres from the North West Coastal Highway, which means that tourists don't just drop in unless they are aware of Onslow's attractions and peace.

We loved the Staircase to the Moon, a couple of dinners at the Beadon Bay pub, multiple visits to the Onslow Beach Resort, the Staircase street festival, two Sundowners at the Ocean View caravan park, a pleasant half hour at the Kuarlu giftshop, plus the terrific Op Shop, the outstanding community garden, the Visitors' Centre and Goods Shed Museum, walks to Sunset Beach, fabulous day and night skies and meeting an abundance of kindred spirits. We also discovered Four Mile Creek with its wonderful beach for shell collecting and fishing, great views of the Salt Jetty and Wheatstone Gas Project and a romping playground for the dogs. We never visited Old Onslow or explored the cemetery on this stay. That will wait for our return in 2022. 

Looking for an off-the-beaten-track location still with all amenities, location and convivial interactions with friendly locals and guests. Onslow is the place to stay.

PS we have already booked for next year!


Puffing Billy?


Onslow beach front...


Images of the Community Garden -























Curious commemoration of the genesis of the Salt Project...











Traffic off Onslow...

Fishing off the Salt Jetty at sunset.


Sunday 25 July 2021

Dealing With Life's Slight Derailments...

During the last twelve years with my beloved Michael, I have definitely experienced changes in my personality. I used to be hemmed in by rigid routines when my children were young and I felt hindered by a rather unsatisfactory marriage. In fact, I now regard my 'then self' as dead boring, hopelessly disciplined and incapable of flexibility, being unable to adapt to the unexpected and certainly never appreciating absurdities.

Take some of my famous disasters (and almost catastrophes) since I met the love of my life. Falling over whilst dragging back a dead tree for our stupendous fire. Pulling the spout off the water container (fortunately, Michael was able to rescue that situation very rapidly). Melting my thongs on the edge of a most agreeable fire. Tripping over every mudhole, creek, brook, soak, dam and ending up wet and muddy. Getting barbed wire stuck in my thigh - that was actually Michael's doing. Being the recipient of Doctor Michael and the First Aid Kit on numerous occasions. Accidentally, whilst stone-cold sober, catching my foot on my chair and ending up, left hand first, in our fire at Big Bell. 

That was not fun, initially. However, we couldn't move camp in the darkness, so I stoically stuck my hand in a bucket of water, drank lots of vino, took some Panadol and surprising slept some of the night. The following morning, I placed my injured hand in a leather glove, refusing to leave until I'd had a bit of a squizz around the abandoned town.

Then we journeyed into Cue to make an appointment with the nurse. This was not a pretty sight. All four fingers, thumb and palm had second degree burns. The nurse sensibly asked us where we were headed. Any sensible person would have responded that we would head home. Barleese to that! We were meeting friend Zelda in Laverton a few days hence. Our heroine didn't even raise an eyebrow. She responded by encasing my hand in a five-day infection controlled foil, mesh and bandage, organised me some excellent pain relief and sent us on our way.

My love of language has definitely aided me at times such as these. "Bollocks" is an incredibly useful word to express displeasure from mild to extreme. "Rooted" describes an item or situation as being somewhat terminal. Similar to "stuffed". "Excellent" or "Gold" may be employed in either genuine joy or as a sarcastic remark of a situation going horribly wrong. "Bloody" is another adjective in the same mold. "Dodgy" can illustrate any person, item or entity that may be slightly less than ideal or "on the nose".

Over the last few days, Michael and I have employed these and other colourful phrases in relation to the seemingly cursed caravan water heater tank. The damned device has been removed, pondered over, taken apart, photographed, discussed and yesterday, replaced back in its position on Digger's side without resolution. The useless piece of shit (there is an appropriate noun) is utterly rooted, due to poor installation that caused failure of the rivets and the subsequent leak. 

Hence, we have no water available in the caravan. We are still heading north with the Cossack Art Awards, my second Pfizer jab and the magnificence of Marble Bar all waiting for us. Yesterday afternoon, we engaged the little grey cells to formulate plans. The loo will work at night by adding a stream of water once one has finished necessary ablutions. We have water in all the caravan parks we are attending. If we free camp, bucket baths are eminently reasonable and the bush is often a far less smelly environment to perform necessary acts than inside a cramped toilet. Plus, we purchased an extra water container, so we now have forty litres of water in excess to all our drinking water.

Today is our last day in Onslow. Yesterday, we attended the marvellous Staircase Street Festival before the evening's additional attraction - Staircase to the Moon - the rising of the full moon over tidal flats and shallow water. An absolutely not-to-be-missed phenomena of the Northwest. 

However, some of our attention, prior to sunset, was hijacked by a hapless chap attempting to stand up on a paddle board, available from the resort. We watched, our hearts in our mouths, as he chose to gingerly cross the jagged rocks to the water, bare foot and with no shirt. For some inexplicable reason, he didn't wish to enter the water from the sand directly in front of the resort. The first time he fell into the sea, the level was only knee deep. We cringed in symbiotic discomfort. He persevered, eventually moving into water that was deeper. He kept trying to remain upright on this aquatic death trap. By the time he gave up, most of the festival's attendees were watching him, including the local ambos. I felt equally sorry for his lady companion on the beach, as the sandflies were viscous due to the lack of wind. I hope he doesn't suffer infections from the inevitable scrapes he afflicted on himself...

The late morning is warm and quite still. The sandflies were on the beach when I took the dogs out. Fortunately, I had covered myself in insect repellent which kept most of the tiny bastards at bay. Soon, I shall tackle the dishes at the fabulous campers' kitchen area and then attack some hand washing in the laundry, necessity being the mother of invention.

Stay tuned...



Staircase to the Moon - Onslow 24 July 2021











Sand patterns created by crabs...coral reef...


Butterfly...


Sunset 24 July 2021



Our heroic tourist with paddle board. Note his bare feet and the rocks...


Still stepping gently...


Moving into deeper water...


Upright!


A tad wobbly...


Staircase Street Festival - Onslow foreshore...


Exquisite local fish prints...


Creating attractive and functional items out of discarded rope...





Karratha lass, sister to Lorraine Coppin, one of Roebourne's movers and shakers...




And her stall. We bought some "Stress Roll-On" medicine...



Onslow - Sunday 25 July 2021.

Friday 23 July 2021

Farce, Faith And Fun All Rolled Into One!

Onslow has provided us with an entire gamut of experiences. The good, the bad and the ugly. However, do not misunderstand me. Onslow has also been paradise for us in the last eight days. The days are warm, the nights deliciously cool. The sunrise and sunset are spectacular. Yesterday, we discovered the beach at Four Mile Creek and spent a very happy session collecting all manner of pebbles, coral and shells. We have travelled the length of the scenic boardwalk from the Anzac Memorial to Sunset Beach. We have marvelled at the impressive structures of the Wheatstone gas plant, the salt pile and the jetties. We have been informed and entertained by a very satisfactory hour inside the excellent Goods Shed Museum.  We have met numerous other campers, townspeople and of course dogs. We have yet to travel out to Old Onslow. That was going to be this afternoon's activity before Happy Hour at the Beach Resort, however, Michael has just returned from a Mission, has spat the dummy, eaten his lunch, had a beer and is now contemplating whether to complete (as much as is possible) the blasted saga of the Swift water heater tank or retire from the world for an afternoon nap. 

The troublesome tank has captured significant time during our stay at Ocean View. That the leak was more than just a dribble took a couple of days to realise. Then, there was the task of removing the device from the underside of the caravan. The quest to find a tradesperson at Swift in Melbourne. The taking of numerous photos and much gnashing of teeth trying to shrink them on Michael's phone. More photos taken and edited on my camera and sent via gmail. Conversations backwards and forwards across the country, with hysteria a clear and present danger. Finally working out that the unit had been installed without various necessary components, in a slapdash way, leading to sheared rivets and the breach of the tank. A catastrophe not quite as epic as the sinking of the Titanic, but stressful and bothersome nonetheless. Added to this story is that the caravan company has gone bust, Kokoda appears to be returning to administration due to the insolvent trading by the owner since 2018 (!) and we will have to approach the insurance company about a replacement unit as the current tank is terminally kaput.

What we hope to salvage from this sorry mess, is emptying the tank, returning it to its position and relying on cold water only for the rest of the trip. Fortunately, we are staying in caravan parks for most of this northern endeavour and have access to ablutions, plus the trusty kettle for heating dirty dishes water.

I have also had my faith in human nature restored at Ocean View. The majority of the guests are retirees, who are just enjoying a quiet escape from the rat race in a warm and picturesque setting. Imagine my horror, a couple of days ago, when I noticed a pair of Michael's jeans had gone missing from the communal washing line. Surely, there couldn't be a thief amongst our caravan park neighbours. After a somewhat disturbed night, I was delighted and relieved to see the jeans pegged back on the line in the morning. Any feelings of disquiet melted away.

Tomorrow is Staircase to the Moon, a beautiful event in the Northwest which may be viewed at coastal sites between April and October. Photographs will follow. Plus, there is the Onslow Staircase Street Festival and Markets between five and nine o'clock, so I think a wonderful evening will be had by all.

After that, our stay in Onslow will be rapidly approaching its end. I have already decided that I want to book for next year. Now all Michael and I are arguing about is for how long...


Not fun...



Not good...


Not pleasurable at all!


Fun!


More fun...


Most horrid...


Somebody had an off day!


Cooling methods in the Northwest...



A train for Michael...


And what?...





Well, I'll be...


In loving memory of Lucky, who was a marine engineer on State Ships...






















Domestic display...


Outside the museum...


One of the scattered derelict jetties...


Rather startling appearing on the horizon...


Wheatstone...


Salt export jetty...


Evening view.