The desert twilight of Marble Bar is just intoxicating. This is our second evening in this unexpectedly beautiful and mesmerising dot in the vastness of the East Pilbara Shire. We didn't really have time to enjoy the stillness and the fantastic light yesterday, being consumed by the necessities of setting up once again after a long drive.
Onslow to Marble Bar would have been a pushover in our younger days. Now, our energy and stamina do not react well to seven hours of getting from one place to the other. This was not all driving. We stopped for wee breaks, lunch in Port Hedland and the long south easterly route on the Marble Bar road. And do not be mistaken, the landscapes were extraordinary and we loved the trip. We just needed a day to recuperate!
The drive to Port Hedland, was, as ever, a tad non-descript. We changed drivers just after Whim Creek and I drove into Port Hedland itself. I never fail to be excited by this bold and raw frontier town. Port Hedland actually oozes history and the precinct around the port is filled with cafes, pubs, the Courthouse Gallery and other artisan nooks and crannies. The museum is well worth a visit and the harbour is utterly spectacular. We were seated at the Dome Cafe on the water's edge when an enormous iron ore carrier glided past, almost noiselessly. Looking up at the right moment was the only reason I saw this juggernaut, seemingly right next to us.
We waved goodbye to Port Hedland and set off for the last half of the drive. We increasingly became aware of an atmospheric haze and wondered about its origin. As we drove closer, we realised we were looking at "cool" fires, lit at this time of year to subdue the spinifex and low scrub and hopefully reduce the number of wildfires come the summer. We were awestruck by these streaming pillars of smoke lifting into the sky. Even though I knew we were in no danger, I was still relieved when we passed the fires and drove the last kilometres into Marble Bar.
The entry into the Marble Bar Holiday Village was so welcoming. We were greeted by manager Kath and settled gratefully into our site. The evening was initially very warm and we chucked off the sleeping bag. Sometime in the early hours of the morning, the desert coolness sent us reaching for the covers, We woke, deliciously comfortable fairly early and ready to ease ourselves into Marble Bar time.
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