After what seems an absolute age since our visit there, I am finally going to write about our overnight stay in Dumbleyung with artist Kerry Scally and her partner Don. Kerry is a multi award winning artist, whose talents cross genres and media. After living all over Australia, in most states, Kerry and Don decided to settle back in Dumbleyung, which has been Kerry's childhood stamping ground. They have owned two houses on Dumbleyung's main drag, Absolon Street and Kerry's Studio is behind their current home. After reading my "expose" of this charming little town, I suggest turning your vehicle of choice south east of Perth and heading to Dumbleyung for a couple of days, including Kerry's art studio in your visit.
Dumbleyung is 270 kilometres south east of Perth, nestled in prime wheat and sheep country. Amongst other towns, Wagin is west, Katanning to the south, Corrigin to the north and Lake Grace to the east. All these places have artists or artisans working on their craft, sharing their knowledge and encouraging each other in their efforts. The country is pretty and will now become prettier as winter rains progressively increase.
Michael used to travel to Dumbleyung for the Black Duck Rides when he rode motorbikes. I had never been. I knew that Lake Dumbleyung had enjoyed five minutes of fame when Donald Campbell drove his Bluebird K7, a jet hydroplane, across the surface of the lake very fast indeed. And I was aware that Facebook buddy and artist Kerry also lived in Dumbleyung and I had wanted to visit her studio for quite some time.
Thus, we set out from Station House on a sunny Monday afternoon, having left all the menagerie in Paula's capable and loving hands. We deliberately chose back roads, as we wanted to drive through unfamiliar territory. All was going swimmingly until we entered the Wheatbelt's version of the Bermuda Triangle somewhere between Toolibin and Tincurrin. Where? Exactly! After much gnashing of teeth and a bit of map reading, we eventually worked out where we were, without the services of Google (no signal) and headed in the correct direction.
Arriving in Dumbleyung right on dusk, we could not, unfortunately, explore our destination that day. Instead, we located Kerry and Don's house where we were welcomed with open arms. After unloading Lily for the essentials of our stay, we set out for the only pub in town, the Grande Olde Dumbleyung Inn or the GODI.
The pub was warm and inviting inside thanks to the crackling open fire. We had a thoroughly enjoyable dinner with wonderful conversation. Don and Kerry are both born story-tellers and their narrative of their lives together was both touching and hilarious. We retired back to their home and stayed up, sipping port as an assured guarantee of keeping the night's chill at bay.
A glorious morning awaited us as we rose to a cooked breakfast served by chef Don. Kerry was already in her studio. We had sampled the delights of her artwork the evening before, choosing several stunning, eclectic and intriguing artworks. As we entered her studio and bid her good morning, Kerry was lovingly wrapping her treasures that were destined to represent her in the East End Gallery.
Somewhat reluctantly leaving their hospitality, we waved goodbye to Don and Kerry and drove a short distance on Absolon Street to the Bluebird display. Once parked and on our feet, I discovered that my understanding of Donald Campbell's life and achievements was woefully incomplete.
This was a bloke who loved speed. And breaking records, possibly in competition with his late father, Malcolm Campbell. During 1964, he completed a feat that had never been achieved previously. He broke the land speed record at Lake Eyre in July and then, on Lake Dumbleyung, he broke the water speed record on the last day of the year. His land speed record in his wheel driven car on Lake Eyre stood until 2001.
Donald Campbell was a restless and superstitious chap, married three times and had one child, daughter Gina. He died, attempting a final water speed record on Coniston Water in the Lakes District of England on 4 January 1967.
Dumbleyung hatched a plan to reinforce those heady days of 1964. A replica of Bluebird K7 was completed just before the fiftieth anniversary and now stands proudly within an attractive all-weather unit. Loads of information kept us entertained for around half an hour.
Nearby was the Visitors Centre, a commemorative sculpture honouring the Country Women's Association, the train station and some early rail memorabilia all located opposite the Grande Olde Dumbleyung Inn. My enthusiasm for all things rail was rewarded as a long CBH train moved past me, which prompted a few photos. We did not visit Lake Dumbleyung itself as we had decided to head for Collie on the next leg of our short getaway.
Dumbleyung is a quirky, interesting and attractive Wheatbelt town, with all desirable facilities - accommodation, café and pub, the Mini Mall, the community garden, the Noongar Cultural Centre, the Bluebird Interpretive site, wildflowers in spring and of course Lake Dumbleyung, which is the largest lake in south western WA. Nearby are Lake Grace (another thriving artistic community), Pingrup with its silo art, Katanning with all the trimmings, including the Premier Mill Hotel and Kukerin, home of the famous Bouncing Pillow!
From now until November, the Wheatbelt will reward us all with lush pastures, the "bellow yellow" of canola, the baa-ing of sheep and lambs and the spring wildflower season.
Beverley will be hosting "Spring Back To Beverley" on the weekend of the 24/25 September. Celebrations include the 150th anniversary of the Wheatsheaf Inn, now the Dead Finish Museum. This festival coincides with the beginning of the school holidays, so pack up the kids and head for the less-travelled Wheatbelt. Plan an itinerary from the Big Smoke through settlements such as Beverley, Brookton, Corrigan, Wickepin, Narrogin, Wagin, Katanning, Lake Grace/King and of course, surprising Dumbleyung.
Kerry will welcome you to her studio with her charm and humour. Don't miss Dumbleyung in 2022!
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