May has been an unusual month, in terms of my ability to write. I have had numerous posts in my head flit in and flit out, without the get-up-and-go to actually strike the silver keyboard of my laptop. Suddenly, we are in the middle of May, so the time is right on this very quiet and cool Saturday afternoon to pull my finger out and wax lyrical.
I have the Bee Gees on at full throttle, I am clad in multiple layers and I do not expect many guests to cross the threshold into the East End Gallery this afternoon. Much as I love welcoming everyone into our Gallery, the combination of two five-day long weekends in a row, new art and artists to accommodate and the interminable dust-a-thons I have had to undertake on a frequent basis due to the never ending roadworks have taken a toll on me.
Travelling to the Big Smoke for appointments is another energy sapping exercise, so we decided to try an overnight stay in the midst of hearing testing, x-rays, a visit to the Boy Wonder and a diagnostic for Michael's beloved Sony camera.
Recent Beverley Artist-in-Resident, the irrepressible Ross and his fabulous lady Kris were most kind in offering their Fremantle digs for our sleepover. Situated on High Street close to the heart of Freo, we were unprepared for the utterly different vibe of the precinct, as opposed to the centre of Perth.
Fremantle was, of course, the original Swan River colony, which was established primarily to prevent the French from getting a foothold in Western Australia. Previously, the Dutch has also had a squizz, but the Poms beat any other punters to build a free settlement.
The free status didn't last very long. By 1850, convicts were being carted across the globe from the Mother Country to add to the citizenry of the Swan River Colony. Most convicts stayed on after their sentences were finished. Fine buildings sprung up, agriculture was diversified into wheat, meat and wool, a police force was established and Fremantle was connected to Perth by rail. During the 1890s, Fremantle became the gateway to the West Australian goldfields, along with Albany in the south.
Fremantle's identity as a port began early, though not without its problems. Two moles had to be constructed, along with the explosive removal of the limestone bar and dredging. CY O'Connor, the colony's Engineer-in-Chief was the designer of the port as it became. He was also responsible for the Mundaring to Kalgoorlie water pipeline. Such was the antipathy of some towards O'Connor that he committed suicide before he could witness the success of his pipeline, a lifesaver for communities throughout the Wheatbelt and the Goldfields.
During WWII, Fremantle Harbour hosted the biggest base for Allied submarines in the southern hemisphere. Post-war, migration from Europe boosted the population and was particularly popular with Southern and Eastern Europeans. Hence, Fremantle became established as a multicultural niche, whilst remaining vey much a maritime working class town. The Fremantle Markets began in 1897 and continue to this day.
Then came the America's Cup. In 1983, on the other side of the world, the Americans were horrified when a yacht named "Australia II" beat another boat "Stars and Stripes" and took the hallowed America's Cup across the seas to Fremantle. By 1986/1987's defence, Fremantle had been beautified and gentrified. A large displacement of the suburb's low income residents were forced out to surrounding areas. After the loss, Fremantle was still able to capitalise on its new tourism persona and in the last few years, new developments have attempted to shape a town that its population can both work in and live.
Arriving at Annies Victorian Terrace Accommodation, we missed the laneway entry to the rear carpark and instead stopped at a wonderful beverage outlet called the Freo Doctor Liquor Store, the oldest bottle shop in Fremantle. Having caught our breath, we had another swing into the laneway and found Ross taking out the bins for garbage night.
Upon entering their glorious establishment, we then enjoyed Ross and Kris' company for the next fifteen hours or so. Ross is a born story teller and is well suited to Kris, who took off around the world at the age of fifty to visit all the sights/sites she specifically wanted to experience. Both had worked in mining operations all over the planet, meeting first in Meekatharra (where, I hear you say?!), followed by Paris and then London. Deciding to hitch up in the UK, they have added many more adventures over the last twenty years. Ross has expanded his artwork and has become one of our Gallery artists, courtesy of his Residency at the Beverley Station. He also shares a Gallery in Fremantle with David Giles, another artist who joined us following his stint at the Station. The world really is becoming smaller.
The only misdemeanor was Ross' chair breaking underneath him as we were sampling an evening drink. As he emerged more or less unscathed, we set off for dinner on foot. "Capri" was unable to provide us with a table before half past seven, so we embarked on a brisk tour of Freo to fill in the time. We were very much taken with David Giles' Gallery, followed by a short stint at the Navy Club, before returning to "Capri". Even on a Monday night, the streets were alive with throngs of people going about their business. The restaurant's saltimbocca (one of my favourite dishes) was tender but a little on the heavy side. However, the atmosphere was warm, lively and cheerful, so I shall return on another occasion.
After the uber-comfy bed lulled us into deep sleep, we did not rise until after half past nine. Ross continued with his stories at a nearby breakfast café and I could have stayed all day listening to his tales. Once again, Freo's streets were full of interesting types, adding to its energetic and vibrant appeal.
Parting reluctantly, we hope to return to Annies Victorian Terrace Accommodation in the near future. Google them if you are looking for a charming venue close to Fremantle's centre. Drop into David Giles' Gallery and savour all the artists and their works, including Ross, who share the space.
Thank you so much to Ross and Kris for hosting us in your lovely and eclectic home.
Fremantle giraffe.
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