Heavenly Beverley : A Voyage Around Port Hedland...

We have just left Port Hedland behind after a couple of most insightful days. We were looking forward to our sojourn there, but even so, we were not entirely prepared for all that transpired.

We arrived at Cooke Point Discovery Park mid-afternoon. The site was easy to reverse into as there was no caravan opposite us and we could take all the room we needed. In fact, we were surprised by the lack of transient residents. On our previous stay, the caravan park had been jammed to capacity.

Our first afternoon was taken up with attending the Hedland Health Campus, located in South Hedland, for Michael to obtain yet more opiates for his troublesome arm. We were in and out of Emergency surprisingly quickly, after a check, a re-dress and an all-clear. Even so, we did not return to the caravan park in time to view the Staircase to the Moon, which was one of the reasons we'd chosen to stop in Port Hedland. However, we did touch base with a group of families travelling together and the bunch of kids were delighted to meet Stella and Pip, invade the swimming pool, ride their scooters, be introduced to flying foxes and generally do anything else apart from look at small screens. Excellent.

The next morning was leisurely. We decided we would treat the day as my "birthday" and do lunch at Dome Cafe, given that we had spent my actual birthday with Michael undergoing surgery at the Mount Hospital. In a former life, part of the Port Hedland Dome had been known as the Green House - hospital accommodation for its workers, including Michael as the solitary mechanical fitter. He has talked about his time at Port Hedland hospital with much affection, and his year in the town was amongst the happiest periods of his life. The Green House had been restored as a significant example of Port Hedland architecture and we had been lucky enough to enjoy a meal there during our 2019 trip.

Alas, not this time. The Port Hedland Dome remained firmly closed as a consequence of COVID 19. So we transferred to the beautifully renovated Esplanade Hotel for lunch in the garden with Pip and Stella. The food was fabulous - pumpkin bruschetta and a very interesting chicken pizza - we both enjoyed two glasses of wine - the surroundings were charming and the staff very attentive. A gold star for the Esplanade. Upon our return to the caravan park, we retired for a well deserved afternoon nap. We finished the day with leftovers, congratulating ourselves on a rather marvellous day.

Mulling over our choices for the following day led Michael up his own and very personal Memory Lane. He made contact with Keith, his former brother-in-law, who was a long time resident of Port Hedland and his only remaining connection to his second wife Joan, who had died in December 2008. We arranged to meet the following morning at the Silver Star Cafe, located within a beautifully restored railway carriage with an outside deck and alfresco area.

We were both nervous. Michael hadn't seen Keith since Joan's funeral. I wondered how I would be received, given the circumstances. Neither of us needn't have worried. Keith turned out to be a big, casually dressed Nor'westerner with a tanned open face, a ready smile and an easy conversationalist. Amongst the chat, we talked about his passion for flying, his son Nathaniel and grandchildren, his wife Mary, his stepmother Mary (whom Michael had held in high esteem), the changing face of Port Hedland and his older sister Joan, Michael's wife for twenty-two years.

Keith's reminiscences were such a generous gift, particularly for Michael. His forty-seven years of knowing Joan acted like the pieces of a puzzle finally rematerialising, having been misplaced. He cheerfully admitted that he had never particularly liked his sister, but their last visit together had been full of mutual enjoyment, understanding and hope for their futures. Unfortunately, this was not to be.

He also gave us rare glimpses of Michael's children, another bittersweet moment. His straightforward revelation that Michael's daughter shared her mother's personality suddenly made so much sense, allowing Michael to recognise that he had done the best he could as their remaining parent after Joan had died. This matter-of-fact discussion was both powerful and enlightening.

We eventually farewelled Keith after we'd enjoyed both morning coffee and lunch with him. Not ready to return to the confines of Digger, we found ourselves at the Courthouse Gallery just around the corner from the Silver Star Cafe. Three fabulous Gallery attendants - Sam, Elisha and Jane - made us very welcome as we perused the delights of the artists on display. We ended up buying a small and intricate dot painting and a gift for Grandbaby Immy. We also chatted and laughed over shared experiences, staying until closing time at four o'clock. And then we turned Lily out of the town centre and along the rather disorientating north-facing peninsula of tidal flats upon which Port Hedland sits.

Right up until we left Port Hedland, we never hesitated if following a thread of Michael's memories. We visited the sites of the old hospital, the infamous Single Men's Quarters (SMQ) and the neglected remains of the Cooke Point Recreation Club. Michael walked the dogs around Pretty Pool and the adjoining creek, with its luscious turquoise waters and beguiling mangroves. We passed both of the properties in which Darryl and Wendy had lived. Lastly, we returned to the port, drawn by our fascination with the enormous iron ore carriers. And after watching one of these ships being guided out to sea with the help of two sturdy tugboats, we left Port Hedland to head further west, lured by eager anticipation for Roebourne, Cossack and Point Samson as our next destinations.