Saturday, 14 August 2021

Farewell to the Northwest, Hello (Again!) Winter...

We are currently resident in Yalgoo, having left Marble Bar three days earlier. When we left the Bar, the temperature was hovering in the low thirties. We received rather a shock as we approached Newman to let the dogs out for a toilet break. The temperature had dropped significantly. We dug out our cardigans and jumpers before we arrived at Newman's Yurlu Caravan Park. This new park, where we stayed during the first week of July, was showing signs of dryness - the new turf unpowered sites were disappointedly brown in patches due to limited reticulation. We had booked a powered grassed site to escape the road base ones. The cost for the lawn jumped ten dollars. The morning desert wind was decidedly chilly

The second night away from the northwest was at Karalundi Caravan Park, fifty-five kilometres north of Meekatharra. The tariff was much more reasonable and the grounds were beautiful. The staff were onsite and very enthusiastic. The café and reception were warm and inviting. Attached to a boarding school for aboriginal children, Karalundi is set away from the highway in a quiet location. Five stars. But the temperature kept dropping. We added an extra sleeping bag and cranked up the heater. The following morning was very brisk indeed.

And onward to Yalgoo. We arrived around four thirty on Thursday. Although the sun was still fairly high in the sky, we noticed the coolness as soon as we exited the car. We had changed seasons irretrievably and I must admit, we were not entirely comfortable with the shift.

However, this too will pass. And there are bonuses for a cool and wet winter in the southern half of Western Australia. Between Mount Magnet and Yalgoo, we were mesmerised by the stunning display of wildflowers. We had seen hints of the season to come when we'd set out on our way north in early July, but now, the colour palette was in full bloom.

And the good news is that, as we head south, prices are becoming far more affordable. Fuel has dropped twenty cents a litre. Caravan park fees have dropped steadily and here at Yalgoo, we are paying eighteen dollars less a night than we did in Marble Bar. I was able to buy three meals worth of meat and chicken at the magnificent Mount Magnet butcher to see us through until we are home without breaking the bank.

One nagging concern is that the places we love in the northwest are becoming too expensive for pensioners like us. Our winter escapes are for Michael's health, both physical and mental. If we stay in Beverley through the winter months, any chest infection that he develops inevitably leads to IV antibiotics. We discovered by accident four years ago that escaping part of winter reduces his risk of succumbing to a lung bug when we were in Queensland for the end of July and most of August. Since then, Michael has only had a couple of mild infections that responded to the "atom bomb" three day course of very powerful oral antibiotics.

Onslow on the coast is still affordable. Pensioner discounts for more than seven days at the Ocean View Caravan Park help keep costs down for couples like us. The whole site has been redeveloped with pleasant landscaping including rapidly growing trees. The amenities are new and as a council run park, cleaning is scrupulous. The seven day a week supermarket is well stocked with prices that are not over the top. The Beadon Bay Hotel, unlike the Ironclad in Marble Bar, has less than extortionist prices. Even the Beach Resort was accessible for a treat on two or three occasions and dog friendly. 

We will return to Onslow in 2022 - we have already booked. However, Marble Bar is a different story. We shall have to make sure we are completely self sufficient, so we don't have to buy any supplies there. That is a shame, because we enjoy supporting the local communities. However, when the pub and the caravan park are both in private hands, unfortunately profit seems to dictate services.

We are delighted to be stopping in Yalgoo for three nights. This stay will give us a chance to re-acclimatise to winter before we are home. And fossick, of course. Plus, Michael is keen to show me the Thundelarra Road south east of Yalgoo when we leave on Sunday. We may or may not decide to run the gauntlet and drive all the way home. We have no money left and the dogs are sharing our meals.

Has the trip been worth the disasters and stress? Absolutely! (Most of the time)

Stay tuned for our next exciting instalment...


Last memories of Marble Bar 2021 -


Late afternoon light at the Bar...


What the hell is that wet green stuff?!


Canine joy at the Bar...


Marble Bar pool at dusk -






Magda on the road again...


Gods playing with boulders...?


The "overwidth" Great Northern Highway - note the fully sized three or four trailer roadtrain on the side of the road giving way...











Escort vehicles in front and behind these three juggernauts...


Gorge country around Newman...





Welcome to Karalundi...


Reception and café...


Lovely campgrounds...


CRC Meekatharra - Jo with her husband's artwork...


And the larger than life Mizz Anna Johnson!


Arriving in Yalgoo...

Midwest sunset.




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