Tuesday, 23 August 2022

A Long Long Time Ago...In Longreach!

I discovered, much to my amused horror,  that I have morphed into a photographic maniac. The last nearly two weeks have been spent editing a seemingly never-ending set of snaps that I have merrily taken without any consideration for the time required for their viewing and alteration. Hence, I have not written a single word on my blog and find myself trying to remember the best moments in Longreach from my fading memories of the Queensland outback. I shall now attempt some Total Recall.

Having been unable to find a temporary home in any caravan park, we resorted to staying in the Longreach Private Apartments, which were close to both the Qantas Museum and the Stockman's Hall of Fame.  These were detached villas that had been fully and delightfully renovated a couple of years previously and we were happily satisfied with the private end villa next to the now disused night cart track. 

We began our Longreach experience with the fabulous Powerhouse Museum, housed in the old Longreach powerhouse. Only open for fairly short hours with a lunch break, we were pleased we made the effort to enter for the afternoon session. I had initially thought that I would not be as enthused as Michael, but surprisingly, I was quite fascinated by this quirky and entertaining museum. We spent the entirety of the afternoon session poking about inside and out, thoroughly enamored with this attraction that provided so much more than the workings of an old industrial site.

Next on the agency was the Qantas Museum. We chose both the airpark tour and the museum after lunch. To walk on the tarmac around and under a DC 3, a 707, a Constellation and a 747 Jumbo was amazing. To then climb inside these giants of the sky was even more awe inspiring. The tour was a two hour extravaganza , after which we gratefully stopped for lunch and a browse in the gift shop. After our hunger and thirst was satiated, we launched forth into the main museum, plus the added bonus of the Catalina flying boat and the original hanger on display outside.

We staggered out into the late afternoon sun after a mammoth session reminiscing the foundation and history of Qantas. We returned to our digs to sleep soundly before our next excursion to the Stockman's Hall of Fame. Michael was a bit ambivalent about the live show, but I persisted with wanting to attend and we enjoyed the horsemanship, the dogs, a bit of music and a witty commentary very much indeed. There was also a small gallery to peruse and attractive gardens. We then followed our usual routine of lunch prior to entering the Museum. Once again, we were enthralled by the depth and variety of exhibits.

Longreach is not a big place. This town of around three thousand is the administrative centre for the surrounding cattle and sheep industries. Tourism is extremely important and Longreach belies its size with a bustling main drag with all amenities, including hip cafes and bars, along with its big attractions. We also visited the wonderful Station Store, which was like stepping into a treasure trove of original gift ideas, along with some stagecoaches on display.

Another gem in this fascinating outback town.

We will return to Longreach and spend longer in the town. Three nights was nowhere near enough time to enjoy all the features and we barely scratched the surface of what this amazing place has to offer. We reluctantly pulled out of Longreach to travel further eastwards - to Sapphire for a briefish stay in the Queensland Gemfields. 

Stay tuned.


Images from the Powerhouse -








Linesmen...


Explanations - 




Very effective interpretive boards...


Sewing machine used for saddle making...





Chook and animal yard displays...


Cottage display...


DC 3 at the Qantas Founders Museum...


The iconic Jumbo...


Photo opportunity in a jet engine...


Inside a Constellation...


The legroom!


His Majesty inside the Catalina...





Gallery at the Stockman's Hall of Fame...


Earlier transport...


The garden setting...


The live show - very entertaining...





The dogs in action -








Entertainer and sidekick...


Inside view of RFDS plane...


The shearer...


The Stockman




Thursday, 11 August 2022

Waltzing Winton - Another Legend Of The West...

We arrived in Winton mid afternoon after an eventful drive that kept us on our toes. We checked into our digs - the caravan park operated by the Tattersalls pub - understanding it wouldn't be too flash, but they'd had a powered site vacancy for two nights. Although a bit on the dusty side, there was shade and reasonable, clean amenities. A promising start.

Actually, I am running out of superlatives for all our favourite spots on the Old Farts' Epic Road Trip. Cairns, due to Kerri and Kev, Cooktown (B2's home), Mareeba, Yungaburra, Mt Surprise, Croydon and Julia Creek all exceeded our expectations. An honourable mention must go to Normanton, as we simply didn't have enough time to explore the town properly.

On arrival in Winton, we were immediately enchanted. Unfortunately, we decided the time was not right to undertake sustained periods on our feet, so that ruled out the Age of Dinosaurs. The site of the dinosaur stampede was located over 100 kilometres out of town via a gravel road. The boom was lowered on that expedition as well.

Bearing in mind that Winton is about the same size as Beverley, we were concerned that we may not have enough else to do. That could not have been further from the truth. We started the afternoon at the Visitors Centre, which is part of an amazing building that also houses the Waltzing Matilda Centre, a gallery, reading room with a bottle collection, a café, giftshop and outdoor exhibits. We only managed to scratch the surface in the Gallery and Reading Room, before retiring into Romeo's interior before the evening chill set in. On the way back to the caravan park, we were entranced by the street art of bulls, sheep, a pelican and the recreation of the Waltzing Matilda story through a metal and plinth combination.  Whoa!

We enjoyed a very slow start to the following morning, as the temperature was rather chilly. Once we had succeeded at getting our acts together, we adjourned back to the Waltzing Matilda Centre. And of course, there was a story. A.B. (Banjo) Paterson was a Sydney solicitor who really didn't like his job. He far preferred to write poetry and songs. He arrived in Winton to visit his fiancée (of seven years!), Sarah Riley who had travelled to Winton for family reasons. Also in Winton was Christina MacPherson whose family property bordered that of the Riley's holding. In due course Banjo arrived and he and Sarah were invited to the MacPherson's station for a social gathering.

During the evening's entertainment, Christina played a tune on a zither harp that she had first heard in Melbourne. She couldn't remember the name of the ditty, however she and Banjo began collaborating on what would become Waltzing Matilda. The song appears to have been written between June and August 1895.

There is rumour that Banjo and Christina had a dalliance and certainly, the engagement between Banjo and Sarah ended soon afterwards, However, neither Sarah nor Christina ever married and Banjo did not marry until 1903 to Alice Walker. And that was that!

Anyway, the Waltzing Matilda Centre was just an outstanding and innovative example of when a small community can embrace a focus and run with that. An added advantage was that Winton was located in a boulder opal field, which adds value to a visit to Winton. We were just stunned by Winton's initiative. After we eventually left the Waltzing Matilda Centre, we dropped into Opaltown, one of quite a few opal outlets in town. Proprietor Debbie was just lovely. I fell in love with a tiny piece of boulder opal that looked like an angel and Debbie just gave her to me. What a generous lady. Later we attended a bush poetry performance by Gregory North at the...North Gregory Hotel. We were spellbound by his one man show. 

Dinner at Tattersalls was followed by bed. We were due to leave in the morning but I wanted to photograph some sites before we headed for Longreach. So after we left the caravan park, I followed a lively path of recording memories with my camera. Our last stop was the Opal Miner, a centre that offered a view of Winton history, the gems and Duncan the resident blue heeler cattle dog. We stayed as long as we could, vowing to return when we come back to Winton.

Which we will.


Welcome to Winton...


Memories of horse and cart...


Waltzing Matilda Centre


The song and the man...


Explanations...


Zither similar to Christina MacPherson's...


Sketches for "The Proposition" which was filmed around Winton...


Along with "Mystery Road" and "Goldstone."..



More "Proposition" props...


Domestic items...


The domination of sheep...


Shearing shed 


More sheep!


Mister and Missus Cattle...


Last stop before leaving Winton.,,





Duncan hard at work.


Wednesday, 10 August 2022

Romeo Becomes The Boggabilla Bus!

We left Normanton after an eventful afternoon and evening. We were heading for Julia Creek, a place of which we knew nothing. We had originally been going to Cloncurry, but thought that the Curry Muster would mean that town would be crowded, which was not our style. Hence the decision to head to Julia Creek.

This was an all day drive along the quaintly named Route 83.  The distance itself was pretty challenging, without any added surprises.  Although sealed, this road, along with Route 84 (from Four Ways to Julia Creek) and then the Matilda Way to Winton was built on black clay soils. Plus, the Channel Country was marked by frequent and lengthy floodways, which resulted in an extremely unpredictable ride, reminiscent of the Boggabilla Bus ( a well known children's song from the iconic Play School) -

"Bouncing up and down on the Boggabilla bus,

Bouncing up and down on the Boggabilla bus,

Bouncing up and down on the Boggabilla bus!

Bounce! Bounce! Bounce!..."

I began driving from Normanton towards the half-way point - the Burke and Wills Roadhouse. Every now and then, I would erupt into fits of laughter as we navigated the road becoming single lane and then reverting to double lane, bumps and shudders as we passed over floodways and unexpected jumps as we passed from one erratic surface to another. Romeo's shock absorbers are non existent at the best of times and this road didn't provide that at all.

After almost two hundred kilometres, bruising of bums travel, we arrived at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, the only stop between Normanton and Julia Creek. This place exceeded all our expectations. Rather than being  tired, dusty and expensive (I'm afraid comparisons with Auski Servo in the Pilbara are not favourable with the glorious venue that was Burke and Wills), we wandered the establishment with our mouths as open as possible without collecting flies. 

Burke and Wills is big, clean, inviting and boasts a fuel station, a caravan park, a licensed restaurant, decent loos and gift shop. There was indoor and outdoor seating along with a central gathering undercover area for overnighters to gather for a yarn. 

It was named as the Four Ways junction - part of the route taken by the ill fated Burke and Wills expedition to the Gulf of Carpentaria. These blokes were, unfortunately filled with hubris, disregarded travelling with First Nations assistance and perished on the southwards journey at Cooper Creek. Only John King survived with the help of the local First Nations inhabitants. And what blew me away is that they were all mostly very young men.

After a most satisfying lunch and breather, we launched forth in Romeo once more. Julia Creek was another two hundred and forty kilometres further on and the road conditions did not improve. Another interesting feature was the sour smell of some of the grass, which looked to be in poor condition and the lack of trees. We later discovered that the Mitchell grass was still recovering from the horrific 2019 flood event that killed up to half a million cattle and devastated stations around Julia Creek and Cloncurry. There had never been a significant number of trees in the savannah country and there was few incidences of high ground so the 2019 monsoon that followed seven years of drought created a perfect storm of destruction.

Julia Creek itself, was another delightful surprise. The day had been stinking hot with a dry wind, so we had upgraded our powered site to a cabin, which boasted every mod con. We were very thankful to have done so as we were pretty shattered when we arrived. Julia Creek Caravan Park is also famous for its artesian bath enclosures, bush dinners and free bicycles

The town itself boasted two pubs, a fabulous visitors centre - At The Creek - a photographic exhibition in their "Opera House", street sculptures, a Julia Creek Dunnart enclosure, a museum, WW II communications ruins, an illuminated (at night) water tower and an upgraded main drag. 

We returned to At The Creek in the morning to meet Donald the Dunnart up close and personally. Our lovely guide summoned Donald with tantalising insect titbits which he consumed with gusto. He kept us entertained with his antics on show. We also explored the replica mining huts which contained fascinating short stories on screen and panels. The grounds also featured some marvellous sculptures, a water feature, shade and lawn.

In the afternoon, I tackled some tremendously exciting washing and met solo traveller Melanie in her very efficient and spacious camper trailer. We were smitten on the spot. I firmly believed that we have discovered the camper trailer of our dreams. We shall investigate further when we return home.

The following morning, after purchasing some excellent vino from Rebecca at the Julia Creek Hotel, we set out for Winton, hoping for a more agreeable ride in Romeo. Alas, we were to be disappointed. Our trusty camper morphed back into the Boggabilla bus as we set off in a south easterly direction. We gratefully stopped for lunch at the Kynuna Pub before we completed the second half of the trip into Winton, a shire with a population less than Heavenly Beverley but bursting with character and tourist attractions.

Oh, and I found my absent earrings in a front slot of Romeo's dashboard...I didn't leave them at the Normanton Pub after all.


At the Burke and Wills Roadhouse - would this be B-I-N-G-O?!


Mural of a stockman and cattle...


Burke and Wills Roadhouse...


The road's surface...


Waterway enroute...


Approaching the Cloncurry River...


Idiot who passed us, then slowed down...


It's Donald!








Sculptures - "At The Creek", Julia Creek...











Kate with crocodile bites - yum...


Michael with MY crocodile bites...


Michael's real lunch!

Julia Creek street art.