Bouquets first. The Undara Tubes National Park is a wonder of nature that everybody should visit. In its existence as a volcanic peak, it was rather uninspiring, short and squat with few distinguishing features. However, when the Undara volcano erupted only 190 000 years ago, the result was extraordinary. Lava flows travelled in all directions; the longest up to 160 kilometres towards the north west. The volume of the lava was mind boggling - I remember Kevin, our phenomenal guide talking about flows of a cubic kilometre every second...try and get your brain around those figures. Most studies have concluded that was Undara's one hit wonder and it has happily returned to dormancy.
The aftermath was the creation of massive lava tubes and associated caves. Some of the tubes' ceilings collapsed whilst others remain intact. After a slow start by explorers and pastoralists; most avoided the unforgiving surface plain of basalt rock, Undara was then discovered by geologists, other general boffins, tourists and... NASA.
Apparently, the Moon's lava tubes are a possible destination for a human station, so NASA has spent quite a lot of money and energy researching lava tube environments around the globe. Carbon dioxide levels have a subduing tendency to rise within the tubes, causing breathing difficulties and eventually death if one is not paying attention. In fact, some of the lava tubes are so dangerous that only scientists are allowed to venture into their interiors. Which is why there was no discernible evidence of any First Nations' activity inside the lava tubes, due to eminently sensible avoidance by the local skins.
Anyway, I've digressed again. We chose to undertake the slackers' Archway Tour, due to our dodgy joints. Going down the steps was great for Michael's hips and awkward for my knee. Coming back was far easier for me and harder for His Majesty. Even so, we were clearly shown just how unfit we were!
All was forgotten during the actual tour. Photographs cannot possibly illustrate the magnitude and beauty of this awe inspiring place. Kevin sprouted facts left, right and centre that just continued to blow our minds. How the archways were formed. What caused the carbon dioxide build-up. Why some lava tubes had collapsed. When flooding occurred in the tubes during each Wet. What monitoring was performed and by whom. The two hours sped by and we were left spellbound. After a trek back up to the top, we loaded ourselves into the bus and headed back to the "Experience".
The Undara Experience presents itself as a slick tourism operation just over the western edge of the Atherton Tablelands. There is a reception desk, bar and restaurant, bush breakfast options, a variety of tours, swag tents, homestead rooms, pioneer huts, railway carriages and the caravan and camping park. Offering a "unique outback adventure", my main brickbat to be thrown revolved around the lack of staff. I understand this is not the fault of the management, but overflowing bins (still not emptied after two days), littered camp sites, broken locks on the toilet doors, a lack of solar lighting for night trips to the loo, broken soap dispensers, running out of toilet paper in the amenities and other tatty features did not endear me to the daily 40 dollar pricetag for a powered site.
The restaurant and bar both ran out of various items, the gift shop was poorly stocked and beverages, particularly wine was overpriced. 45 dollars for a bottle of red was a bit beyond the pale. The restaurant food was pretty good, but expensive. However the location was divine and I shall long remember stunning sunsets from our dining table.
Was I pleased we went to Undara? Absolutely. If I had my time again, I would stay at the Bedrock Village at Mount Surprise and grab a tour from there. And interestingly, after we left Undara, Mount Surprise provided just that...surprise!
Romeo at Undara...
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