We thoroughly enjoyed being in Cooktown. Happily ensconced in the excellent Cooktown Caravan Park on the edge of town, we set up our table and chairs in the shade of a rainforest hedge. Each day was breezy and sunny with some scattered cloud; we did have a minor smattering of drizzle of our first evening. We have been clad in tee shirts and pants - our hats as needed - and an extra layer during the mornings and evenings...positively frigid minimums of around 18 degrees Centigrade! Tea, coffee and breakfast are all part of our casual morning rituals, except when we ate cold pizza at the Saturday markets on the foreshore. We have definitely lowered our pace to that of the tortoise rather than the hare.
Our first full day was both action packed and a timely reminder that we are not as nimble as we used to be...brother Michael (B2) showed up at our campsite and took us for a tour of his digs a short drive away. We were reacquainted with his granddaughter Kate, now a beautiful 14 year-old-old, who works part time at the wharf kiosk whilst she decides if she wishes to return to school.
Michael (B2) dropped us in town where we enjoyed an excellent lunch at the Sovereign Hotel and prepared for a jaunt on foot along Charlotte Street. We waved to Becca, busily serving customers at the Post Office, checked out Jackey-Jackey's Thai Restaurant for Saturday night dinner, popped our heads into various enterprises, picked up a outdoor mat, some fabric softener, lime cordial and bitters. By this stage in mid afternoon, Michael's hips were giving him curry so we searched for a lift home to the caravan park.
No buses and the local taxi's mobile mailbox was full...Luckily, the ladies at the Arts and Crafts suggested a drink at the Top Pub/Cooktown Hotel so we could utilise the courtesy bus. Shortly later, driver Amy (who was working her way around the top end) delivered local Dell and us home. She later returned to drop off our outdoor mat we'd left in the bus.
Close to shattered, I did manage to wash the dishes and some clothes. Newcomers Amanda and Joel with toddler Noah kindly offered us some space on their washing line. Teriyaki Chicken for dinner and then we were ready to crash in front of the laptops - TV for Michael and my blog for me. We both gave up the ghost about ten o'clock and gratefully crashed into slumber.
Day 2 was all about the Lion's Den Pub. In a picture perfect rainforest and paddock setting (complete with exceedingly contented cows), a half hour drive south at Rossville, we thoroughly immersed ourselves into a fabulously eclectic location. Generous outdoor seating expanses meant room for the lunch crowd. Lunch extended through the afternoon as we met people from all over the world. Helena, one of the staff, was a gorgeous dark-haired German girl working towards her 2nd year visa by staying "the season" at the Lion's Den. The quirky museum room, gift shop, loos and camping ground completed the amenities. We moved from the shade to the "smoking area" where Michael begged a fag from an unsuspecting stranger, meeting and chatting with more of the Friday afternoon patrons. Upon returning to the caravan park, we retired for a nap inside Romeo, much to the amusement of our newly arrived neighbours who spied our feet hanging off the edge of the mattress. Rising at dusk, dinner and some telly via the laptop completed another very satisfying day.
Day 3 dawned with the expectation of the regular Saturday morning markets. Our morning beverages were swiftly followed by showers and clean clothes and we pulled up to Michael's pad right on ten o'clock. We gave great niece Kate a lift, parked Romeo and promptly ran into niece Becca and great-nephew Tyler and great niece Rachel, now aged six and five and very lively indeed - a far cry from when we last saw them three years ago.
A methodical stroll around the markets was followed by a delicious morning tea at Driftwood Café. Michael's brownie and my orange and almond cake were both yummy. We then stopped for a spot of shopping at the excellent Cornet's IGA and picked up a new mobile for B2's birthday. We then spent a very engaging couple of hours at the fabulous Cooktown museum, which had new exhibits and more information. The Catholic nunnery and boarding school from the 1880s, the sisters used to pray for a breeze until they were eventually relocated after the second world war to the cooler climes of Herberton in the tablelands. The building nearly went to rack and ruin until saved in the late 1960s by the impending arrival of the Queen in Cooktown as part of the Bicentennial celebrations in 1970.
We fitted in some washing before taking B2 and Kate to dinner at Jackey-Jackey's. The Thai food was fragrant and warming, the sunset sublime and the chatter cheerful. After dropping B2 and Kate home, we concluded the evening with a bit of TV whilst I finished this post.
Day 4 was all about taking B2 out for an impromptu early birthday lunch back at the Lion's Den. An excellent band (including James the drummer from Beverley in Yorkshire) named Lady Valiant were belting out their own and classic songs until 3.30pm. We all ordered the Sunday roast, except for Kate, who was content with a chicken burger and chips. The vino, Wild Turkey, slushie and iced coffee flowed, Michael (naturally) was able to pinch a fag and we sat next to Julie, who had attended Eastern Hills High School a few years after Michael. Just think about the chances of meeting somebody who went to a Western Australian high school in far north Queensland! On our return to the caravan park, we were revitalised by another nanna nap, before watching I-view on my laptop. Plugging into my CPAP machine, I slept exceptionally well.
Today, we farewelled Cooktown with some sadness. Due to sustained manipulation by our mother, I didn't see Michael for 39 years. I don't want to waste the time we all have left. He has filled in some gaps in our early life, which has left me hungry for more. Returning to Cooktown to be with his eclectic family will remain a priority.
This evening, we are in the beautiful and peaceful Trinity Plains caravan park outside Mareeba. Dusk is approaching and the bird song is just intoxicating. We have passes through heavy cloud close to the Great Dividing Range and are now under a clear sky. What will tomorrow bring? All our plans are fluid for the next four days until we are booked into Undara to see the world famous lava tubes. There are certainly far worse places to Trinity Plains to spend a couple of nights...
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