Heavenly Beverley : A Payne's Find Stopover

Leaving Cue really felt like the beginning of the end. Our great northern expedition was drawing to a close. The weather whilst staying at the Queen of the Murchison had been rather fickle, so we knew we had definitely enjoyed the last of the warm days.

Much as we would miss being on the road, I began to experience a sneaky and subtle homesickness. Not so much the Canine Clowns, but I really was missing Madame Cat. She and I had lived together for a startlingly diverse thirteen and a half years and she knew all my foibles. Vanessa had reported that Her Majesty was also bereft without Michael (with whom she usually slept) and was continuously making "noises" at Vanessa, which she found exceedingly unnerving. Those who have been miaowed at by a cat will understand exactly what I am saying.

With appropriate fanfare, we set off with Lily and Digger, venturing ever southwards. The distance between Cue and Mount Magnet was only eighty kilometres but the time seemed to drag. We were very pleased to come to a halt on Mount Magnet's main drag and we were both gobsmacked by the town's improvement over the last ten (for Michael) to twenty years (for me).

Mount Magnet was neat and clean and brimming with shops. A comprehensive hardware store (and not Bunnings) drew our immediate attention. Michael was searching for obscure ends for our water tanks' feeding wand thingy. I was always interested in all items hardware, even water tanks' feeding wand thingies. Within a few minutes, I had discovered the items I wished to purchase. A substantial hook to hang the second towel, a smallish tarp and a proper caravan doormat to wipe our feet. I was over tracking dirt into Digger and EVERYBODY else I'd seen on the road had doormats to their caravans. Suddenly, I felt like one of the tribe.

Jamie, the affable owner of Murchison Hardware, was delighted to have his photo taken for some free publicity. His good lady Cora was not so enthused. With a squeal of protest, she turned into a reverse jack-in-the-box and dived for the floor. She reappeared, apologised and explained she disliked being photographed. I knew what she meant. I always look like I've had a stroke in photos... As we left, I asked if they sold the "West Australian" and Jamie generously donated a paper to us. Howzat!

Damon and Kent from Mt Magnet Meats had a terrific butcher's shop. I kid you not, other country towns could learn a thing or so from these lads and their range. I bought six honey and mustard beef sausages and they were delicious for dinner. We collected a few fridge magnets to pass onto other happy travellers, promising to spread the word.

Onto Payne's Find for the night. We arrived at the combination roadhouse/tavern/cafe/caravan park/ touristy establishment in the latter hours of the afternoon. For some reason, we were both shattered and the first order of business was a drink at the pub. Payne's Find is renown for hiring backpackers and as per usual, our attendant was from another part of the world - Katya from Slovenia to be exact.

Setting up for the night in Digger was simplicity itself. We felt a sharp pang of sympathy for two other couples who pulled into the "caravan park" after us. The night was cold and windy. One pair were sleeping in the back of their car. The others were setting up a reasonably sized tent - perhaps for the first time as she looked a tad confused. The couple in the back of the car looked more organised - they actually cooked something simple on their little stove. I have no idea if the other tent builders had anything to eat or drink. And both of them had to cope with the main generator that powered the entire precinct, which was situated about fifty metres away in a large and un-soundproofed shed.

The morning was brisk. I watched the tenters dismantle their structure. She kept pushing her hair behind her ears, was underdressed and wearing thongs. Long-haired blond male companion gave her frequent embraces for encouragement. They were gone by eight-thirty.

The bed-in-the-car couple were better organised. In fact, she looked rather fearsome, as she had her hair pulled back into a severe bun before she organised them breakfast. Later, she was deserted by her male companion and their vehicle. Just as I was about to invite her into the caravan, bloke and car reappeared. However, she chose to sit in the cold morning shade rather than sit in the relative warmth of their vehicle. Maybe she had entered menopause...

Right on schedule, we departed Payne's Find at eleven o'clock (ish). We were headed into parts unknown, down the Maroubra Road into the far northern Wheatbelt. This was new territory for us both. We could hardly wait.