Heavenly Beverley : When Up is the Only Possible Alternative.

When we were unable to secure accommodation at either Ravenshoe or Herberton (our preferred destination in the Atherton), we didn't have a great deal of choice. The cabins at Innot Hot Springs had been right royally lashed by a TripAdvisor reviewer and we weren't keen to drive any more than four hundred and fifty kilometres in one day.

The Mt Garnet Traveller's Park had reasonable writeups and looked to be set in a beautiful location. The latter view was correct. The park is set off the main highway in a quiet spot...apart from the pop music blaring from a neighbour's house. The gardens are still pretty...if a trifle neglected. The managers, Chris and Pam are delightful and helpful...but didn't quite give us all the facts. The birdlife was prolific.

And the cabins. Think 1970s two roomed dongas with a bathroom between the small bedroom and the miniscule lounge/dining and kitchenette. Add torn curtains and missing flyscreens and that was the picture. At ninety-five dollars a night, the tariff was exorbitant. Plus the curry bought from the local servo was delicious but gave us both the collywobbles. The pub had closed.

Worse was to come. During the night, the loo malfunctioned. Our only necessity refused to flush. We resorted to the old pour-the-water-out-of-a-bucket-as-fast-as-possible-into-the-toilet-bowl. Except we didn't have a bucket. The small waste bin had decorative cut-out stars in it.

My darling refused to be defeated. A plastic bag insert into the bin rendered it more or less watertight. The carefully aimed waterfall commenced. The spillage was unavoidable but at least the unmentionable in the bowl disappeared down the S bend.

This morning, all I wanted to do was leave. The Nerada tea bag split and was unpleasant. Michael was with me after his cup of instant coffee (we hadn't unloaded his coffee bags). Without breakfast, we prepared to drop off the key. I explained to Chris that the loo was a problem. I added that the cabins needed to be bulldozed. Without missing a beat, Chris agreed with me. Apparently the new owners agreed as well. Alas, no renovations had begun as yet.

We fled without eating. Fortunately, about fifteen kilometres further on, the Archer Creek Markets were in full swing with Nanny's food van offering breakfast and decent coffee. We were saved! And the location was a beautiful free camping spot, which we will mentally retain for future reference.

Once fed, we drove on towards Herberton. Arriving early afternoon, we launched forth into the Herberton Historic Village. Over sixty buildings and numerous activities dating from the 1880s were in full swing. Michael and I received our personal "Most Wanted" posters which were produced by printer "Dirty" Dave.

We rode the railway with the Herberton-Atherton Railway volunteers and visited the adjoining railway museum. Everywhere we looked, there were fantastic artefacts from the past and Michael went somewhat berserk with his camera. Leaving without seeing the entirety of the Village, our tickets allow us to return tomorrow morning before we leave.

After four o'clock, we retired to the Herberton Heritage Cottage, run by owner/operator Fay. Suddenly we felt we'd died and gone to heaven. The exquisite 1913 vintage house offers two ensuite rooms with breakfasts. The furnishings are beautiful, the surroundings warm and comfortable with a spa bath and huge shower head in the bathroom. And although we have not yet crawled into our bed, we have high hopes of decent linen and a restful night's slumber.

Dinner at the Royal Hotel was surprisingly good. The Tuscan Chicken was delicious. The young bar assistant was run off her feet as her boss, who was also the cook, was waiting for an ambulance to take his wife to hospital! We decided to return to our cottage and enjoy Sunday night television with a few glasses of vino.

What a difference a day makes.

Archer Creek markets -