Saturday, 31 August 2024

Heat (Wind) And Dust...

There are not too many climatic events that can irritate us in our beloved Outback. As we are basically camping inside a tiny A-Liner with a roof and electricity, we are able to escape heat, cold and/or rain. However, in the "twilight" of our 2024 Great Escape, the addition of swirling red dust was a tad too much for our comfort and good humour.

The movie,"Heat and Dust", released in 1983, and based on the novel by Ruth Prawer Jhabvala, followed two semi-related English women, experiencing India sixty years apart. Olivia travelled to India as a newly-wed in 1923, but after a scandal, was divorced by her husband. His granddaughter Anne, having read Olivia's letters to her sister Marcia, became fascinated, going to India to learn more of Olivia's story. Both engaged in affairs with Indian men. In Sitapur, they both fall pregnant. Olivia's was terminated and she ended up in hospital where all was revealed. Olivia eloped to Kashmir with her Indian lover, and he deserted her there in a house he bought for her.. She remained in the hill country for the rest of her life. Anne ultimately decided against an abortion, moving away from the heat and dust of Sitapur, to Kashmir, where she planned to have her child.

So, our heat, wind and dust was obviously not as trying as in India, but in a pretty small caravan that leaked like a sieve, we still found conditions rather difficult. The wind howled periodically in both Sandstone and Leonora, which was both unwelcome and uncomfortable. In addition, the temperature, whilst not officially over the top, added to the general feeling of dusty tackiness.

On our final morning in Leonora, the wind would not let up.  My shower was really a waste of time. Packing up was tiring and dirty. We hit the road to Kalgoorlie around half past ten, thoroughly sick of the flying dust. 

We arrived in Kalgoorlie somewhat relieved. Yes the wind was still ever present, but the dust was not as intense. Yesterday, I had my first haircut in over eight weeks. Utter bliss and many thanks to Direct Cut in Boulder. I went from sporting an exceedingly shaggy Monkees style to once more resembling a short, round woman with a reasonable coiffure.

And last evening, I met up with my legendary friend, Mizz Jo Russell, whom I have cherished and admired for many years. gives away both our ages... Anyway, Jo has wrangled the Kalgoorlie community into a force of positivity for her daughter Megan, who is autistic. She is expecting Megan to have a productive life and has set up a microenterprise for this purpose. She continues to advocate, engages in paid employment herself and having her older son Daniel still at home. Jo is the epitome of a super heroine. She has a fiery red head of hair and just needs a cape to complete the look.

We leave for home this morning. Surprisingly, I have really enjoyed our short stay in Kalgoorlie-Boulder, but I need to go home. . Maybe age is creeping in - I love our bed, bathroom and easy-care living space at Station House. And this trip has not been quite as relaxing as we'd hoped. Several catastrophes have marred the Great Escape, including my scalding burn five weeks ago, which is still healing.

I  will be back to the Gallery next Thursday. I am hoping a few good nights' sleeping in our bed restores my passion. 

Stay tuned!

 
Yes, there was wind...
 
 
 
Kalgoorlie haircut...
 
 
The spectacular Mizz Jo Russell ...

 
Need a haircut? Visit Direct Cut, Boulder...

 
Kalgoorlie Hotel - excellent pizza!



 

 
 
 

 



A Tale of Two Sisters...

We set off from Sandstone to our last stop on the Great Escape 2024. Leonora, a town of about fifteen hundred. The trip of around two hundred and forty kilometres took about four hours as we chose not to take the Agnew Loop.  We had previously travelled this route which had been narrow, dusty and extremely rough. So, instead, we continued to Leinster and turned south towards Leonora on the hardtop.

Arriving at Leonora Caravan Park, we discovered that expansion of donga accommodation had been significantly increased. Unfortunately, increased grass coverage had not been on the agenda, and as our stay continued, the dusty outdoors began to intrude into Will's interior. The glossy lustre of the Great Escape was beginning to wear a bit thin.

Even so, we loved our stay in the twin settlements of Leonora and Gwalia. Once more, we had received some confidential information about an old tip, which was duly visited with great fossicking enthusiasm over a couple of monumental days.

We also returned to Gwalia, which has never disappointed.  This is a town that has been revived for over a hundred years on numerous occasions. The mine officially closed for a final time in December 1963...except that didn't happen. The mine re-opened, was placed in mothballs and then re-opened once more. Fast forward to 2024, The Sons of Gwalia mine is now owned to Genesis, who are currently drilling about two kilometres underneath Hoover House, built as the mine manager's home in the late 1890s. Part of the Gwalia Museum, Hoover House is a stunning example of Goldfields' architecture, beautifully appointed and completely restored. For a very reasonable tariff, visitors may stay in one of the three renovated bedroom at Hoover House. Do yourselves a favour, immense yourself in an overnight stay at Hoover House and you will not be disappointed.

In hindsight, Leonora was perhaps a bridge too far. We had enjoyed a fairly restful trip, albeit with a few mishaps, right up until Marble Bar. Then, on our way south, we had crammed too many stops into the latter part of the Great Escape. Note to selves - we are too old for this number of kilometres in a fairly shot space of time.

So, Gwalia and Leonora were definitely not to blame for our less than exuberant mood. We had underestimated our stamina to be able to do as much as we had done n the past. These wonderful twin towns are so worth a visit to explore their unique history.

Want a splendid taste of the Goldfields? Head north from Kalgoorlie to Menzies, Kookynie, Leonora and Sandstone.

 
Road up the mine - Gwalia...
 
 
Signals at Sons of Gwalia mine...
 
 
Looking down the pit...

 
 

 
historic display...

 
The woodlines were vital to operations...

 
Sons of Gwalia mine... 

 
One happy camel!

 

 
 
 
Fossicking (with latest hat) at Leonora... 

 
The Pink Camp Gwalia...

 
Gwalia... 

 
Gwalia entry statement...

 
Loo in a boiler...

 
Leonora sunset....

 
Gwalia shops...
 
 

 



 

 

 

 

 
 


 

 





 



 

 


Monday, 19 August 2024

Very...Very...Surprising Sandstone!

After a very, very long drive from Karalundi (55 kilometres north of Meekatharra) to Sandstone, we arrived with great relief at the Shire-run Alice Atkinson Caravan Park. We were warmly welcomed by managers Leanne and Garry and allocated a terrific site with shade, grass for the fatheads and right next to the ablutions. We gratefully settled in for a six night stay. Make sure to book before arrival.

Alice Patricia Josephine Atkinson was born on a Sandstone Shire station in 1910. She married Joseph Atkinson , who had been born in Lennonville (now abandoned in the Gascoyne) and had six children, one of whom was born in Scotland in 1943. Perhaps Joseph Atkinson was stationed there during World War II. Sadly, two of their children died young. Alice must have been a prominent woman in and around Sandstone to have the caravan park named after her. I would love to discover more of Alice's history.

We had an absolute ball here in Sandstone. For a town boasting 19 families, they have nailed the promotion of their attractions.. Where do I begin?

For a start, the caravan park, which has only been taken over by Leanne and Garry in March is a constant hive of activity. The ablutions are a credit to Garry, as keeping loos, basins and showers clean in a red dirt environment is not easy. There are lawns, a campers kitchens, free BBQs, a playground, outdoor exercise equipment for the fit and keen, trees, recycling and ample rubbish bins. And as my tummy burn is still causing me some grief, Garry kindly allowed me to use the disabled bathroom. They are experienced caravan park managers and are both working hard to uphold the tradition of Alice Atkinson.

Then, there are the delights of a cruise around town. Most of the houses are being renovated and colourful gardens abound. There are echoes of the mining industry everywhere with relics of the past dotted all through the streets and houses. A rainbow windmill and "Welcome" mural greet travellers arriving from the east. The local church has been lovingly restored. The Tourism Information Centre and Museum is open 7 days a week. The Post Office Cafe with plenty of memorabilia offers delicious food between 7am and 2pm. Their cheese and ham croissant is a legend in its own time.

An art exhibition on Saturday night was the piece de resistance. Sandstone turned on a fabulous show which attracted visitors, artists and locals. The locals provided the food and drinks and the whole event was superbly orchestrated by the "Fab Four". We will definitely be there in 2025.

And yes, we fossicked. The seeds of "Undiscovered Country" are firing Michael's little grey cells left, right and centre. We met Andy and Bobbie in their fantastic home, with historic paraphernalia bursting out of every nook and cranny of their eccentric abode. Andy also took Michael on a local tour of some of the "resource centres" and we have vowed to keep the locations to ourselves.  Hence the title of what will become a tribute to Andy and Sandstone. 

We never ventured out to London Bridge or the fascinating original brewery or the State Battery. We were too busy relaxing or socialising with fellow travellers or immersing ourselves in the past. 

The weather was as eclectic as Sandstone. Heat, wind, rain, cold. We experienced four seasons over six days.

Want to experience the real outback of Western Australia? Come to Sandstone. 

PS the pub has been bought. We look forward to its re-opening soon!

 
Sandstone sunset...

 
The Post Office Cafe - 

 
 
 

 


 Mural at the Anzac Memorial...

 
At Andy's and Bobbie's -

 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
Fossicking gems and Stella...( and some random Old Fart)

 
Evening relaxation...

 
Another Sandstone sunset...

 
Tourism Information -

 
 
 
Sandstone landmarks -

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
Art Exhibition -

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 

 
Sandstone's "Fab Four" Art Exhibition movers and shakers!