We have an artist at the East End Gallery, who is a photographer named Natalie Blom. She has been an Artist-in-Residence at the Station Gallery and is a most interesting young woman. She produces her own cameras (don't ask me how she does that), moves her films manually within the camera (definitely don't ask me how she does that) and then likes to soak her films in weird and wonderful concoctions to see the effect. The results from immersing the film into Mi Goreng noodle mixture was quite psychedelic!
During her residency, Natalie wrote a wonderful mini brochure called "A Case For Walking Very Slowly In Nature". This delightful tiny pamphlet argued the rationale for abandoning the brisk power stride in order to embrace the surroundings at a quieter, slower pace. I, for one, am in full agreement with Natalie's persuasive argument. Which is exactly how we decided to spend our time at Mount Augustus.
We arrived at Mount Augustus Tourist Park covered in mud from our trip from Meekatharra through to Mount Gould for an overnight stay. Onto Mount Augustus was dry and sunny but fortunately, the gravel road was still a tad damp, so we had less dust permeate Will's interior. Occasionally, sticky wet mud is more acceptable than fine clouds of red dust. Six of one and half dozen of the other...
In a fabulous powered site close to the cafe, shop, campers' kitchen and amenities, we set up, cleaned up, enjoyed a fabulous T-bone steak and retired to bed. Whilst the sun was still in the sky, we were mesmerised by Mount Augustus. I realised very quickly that a four nights stay (which others might consider totally excessive) was not going to be adequate, so I rapidly booked any extra night.
We watched people charge into the caravan park in their RVs, caravans and tents, undertake a quick dash around the mountain loop road, power through a couple of walks and maybe try to prove their superiority by climbing 12 kilometres (!) up and down to the summit...
We did nothing of the sort and would recommend a similar course of action to those like us who just want to drink in the almost unbelievable vista of the rock and the surroundings. We traversed the Loop Road over two separate outings, travelling the opposite direction on the latter drive so as to appreciate all the nuances of the rock. I would suggest that we spent much more time than most at Cattle Pool (an oasis in the outback), at the Petroglyth rock faces ( fabulous art) and at the Pound (without taking a step of the 800 metre walk). Testing my foghorn voice ability within the Pound's natural amphitheatre resulted in a satisfactory echo. Michael. obviously having never been a mother, was unable to replicate my bellow.
The facilities were superb. The bathrooms were clean and warm. The laundry spick and span with washing machines and dryers. The shop and tourist information centre was excellent and the cafe/bar was one of the highlights of our stay. Our second dinner was a delicious pork brisket for me and luscious honey mustard chicken legs for Michael (courtesy of a three legged chicken!). And then, of course, there was the biggest rock in the world.
The trek to Mount Augustus was definitely worth the end result. Yes, the gravel roads ranged from fairly decent to bloody awful. Yes, dust incursion was a huge issue, particularly after we left Mount Augustus, as Will leaked like a sieve. Yes, vehicles take a hammering, so driving to the conditions and carrying spare tyres are not a choice. Running out of fuel in the outback is considered the cardinal sin, so carrying fuel is essential if travelling long distances between fuel stops. The gravel roads of the Western Australian outback are littered with tyres that gave up the ghost. Some of these weary tyres had been transformed into impromptu decorations such as flowers. We took great delight in spotting the abandoned tyres in their final resting places. Not rocket science but made for lively banter.
We undertook two leisurely strolls around the rubbish tip, with the owners' permission. Fossicking in this location was just sheer pleasure. Although we only relieved the site of about four items, the actual fascination was in the collection and the history.
Mount Augustus Station was gazetted in the 1880s. Like many Gascoyne properties, sheep ruled the roost until operators realised the damage caused by their hoofs and grazing habits. Now cattle are king, as their feet are kinder to the fragile environment. The station was in the middle of muster when we arrived, so the cattle were in holding lots, before being trucked out. We could hear their mooing particularly at night when all else was quiet. Situated on the East Lyons River, the station also attracted myriad different birds ranging from the feisty yellow-throated miner to the incredibly noisy and social white corellas.
The "largest rock in the world, also named Burringurrah" - double in size to Uluru - is classified as a asymmetrical anticline, its layers folded into arch-like bands. The underlying rock is white sandstone which can be seen when the surface granite wears away, a totally unexpected surprise. The whole area was once a shallow sea a mindbogglingly long time ago. Then, still a mindbogglingly long time ago, the rock was created by gigantic forces of nature, allowing it to rise over 700 metres above the surrounding plains.
In conclusion, we loved our stay at the Mount Augustus Tourist Park. Dogs are welcome there, but not in the National Park, so we may not return again. I hope to impart, in the gentlest possible way, for others to follow Natalie's mantra of walking very slowly in nature, whilst at Mount Augustus. I can guarantee that there will be be no regrets, only wonder.
PS photographs can't do Mount Augustus justice. You have to be there...
We only undertook the short walk!
Farewell.
